For people, I shoot in the STANDARD [*Due south] Flick Style setting (you go there by hitting the acme left "*" push), and change only the saturation to +2.

For everything else, I usually set +3 for saturation.

I unremarkably shoot in Auto White Rest (AWB), but trim the colors to add 5 steps of amber (A5).

ISO

I shoot at AUTO ISO most of the time. That'due south the setting next to L, one or two downward from ISO 100.

If shooting action in the nighttime, since Auto ISO unremarkably lets the photographic camera drop to likewise slow a shutter speed (i/3 of a stop slower than 1/focal length), I'll punch-in ISO one,600 or whatever I need to proceed the speeds every bit I need them.

For example, with a 50mm lens, Auto ISO lets the shutter speed drop to 1/40, and with wiggly kids, I need ane/125.

In good lite, I strength the ISO to ISO 50 ("L") for the lowest shadow noise and highest sharpness, especially for rendering sharp textures which get smoothed at higher ISOs, even ISO 100. Even with the menu option ready to disable noise reduction, the 5D Marking II notwithstanding uses information technology.

Auto ISO always grabs ISO 400 with flash, I prefer something slower.

Tweaks

I always leave the shadow optimizer (Automatic Lighting Optimizer) ON, which is its default.

I normally enable highlight recovery (Highlight Tone Priority), except in good light. I don't utilize this in good light considering I tin can't shoot at whatsoever slower than at ISO 200 with information technology ON, and ISO 200 gives visible noise in the shadows.

Exposure Compensation

My 5D Mark II normally gives the best results without whatever exposure compensation.

Colorful subjects in interesting light at +iii saturation tin overload colorful highlights, then nether these conditions with highlight optimization ("Highlight Tone Priority) OFF, I'll frequently set -0.7 compensation.

With highlight optimization ON, I find 0.0 bounty usually gives me the best results nether near atmospheric condition.

No large deal; look at your LCD and use what looks best.

Exposure Lock top

The 5D Mark Two locks the exposure by default as y'all half-press the shutter.

Color Trims acme

Information technology's piece of cake to set precise green-magenta or amber-blue color adjustments.

Simply press:

MENU > Camera •• > WB SHIFT/BKT > Prepare > motility the dot as you lot like with the thumb push > SET.

This setting applies to every white residual position, even Auto and Kelvin.

For instance, here'south a shot at my default WB setting of Motorcar with A5 trim, as I use for most subjects:

bath

Too orange!

I and so made another shot at 2,500K WB, which wasn't orange, but now it was likewise green.

I tried a few other settings, and speedily settled on A5 (amber) and M5 (magenta) WB SHIFT, easily tweaked past looking at the LCD as I changed settings for each shot. The LEICA M9 can't do this!

Maui Bathroom: Mixed CFL and halogen lighting, 2,500K A5 M5 WB. bigger.

File Formats

I shoot at Large JPG, and set it to NORMAL (the stair-step icon) instead of the LARGE (quarter-circle icon as shown below).

Catechism defaults to the FINE (quarter circle icon) setting, and then I ever set the NORMAL options deliberately.

Try it yourself: I've never seen any difference between NORMAL and FINE, and I do notice the smaller file sizes which transfer faster and have up much less infinite in my computer.

Image Size

No one needs 21MP. All it does is slow everything and clog your hard bulldoze.

Try shooting your 5D Mark II at its Thou (11MP) or Southward (5MP) settings. If you await at your images at 100%, you'll see that the lower resolution shots are sharper pixel-by-pixel!

When I'm photographing family unit and friends, I shoot at Pocket-size JPG. Even Pocket-size is skillful enough for bully 20x30" prints.

The smaller-sized images out of the 5D Mark 2 are spectacular. They are much, much sharper and cleaner than images from cameras on which that is their native resolution. When y'all start with over 20MP, information technology looks pretty skilful if you employ all those to make 11MP or 5MP.

Why? Because they use less, or no, Bayer interpolation. No digital photographic camera really resolves its rated resolution; they cheat and interpolate up, so at 100% at its rated resolution, no digital photographic camera paradigm is equally precipitous as a true scan from picture.

At the 5MP setting, you have 100% R, G and B pixels, exactly as if you were using a Sigma Foveon sensor. If Sigma was selling this, they'd sell the 5MP (S) setting as if it were 15MP (as well a lie).

What this means is that the lower resolution settings actually pack away lot more detail than you lot think. The Due south (5MP) setting of the 5D Marking II is a lot sharper than any 5MP camera.

M looks near equally expert every bit L for the same reason.

If you're testing lenses, sure, shoot at 50, simply for everything else, try the settings for yourself, Yous'll probably go what you lot demand at the smaller settings. For example, the 11MP setting of the 5D Mark Ii has way more than detail than whatever of the 12MP (native) Nikon cameras.

The resolution advantage of the 5D Mark II is obvious, even at lower settings. Try them.

Flash

For people shots, I usually use a 220EX for fill-flash, and tape a piece of 1/four CTO gel over the flash.

Autofocus

Modes

You accept three choices:

One SHOT

Use this for still subjects. The camera focuses, and locks as soon as it gets focus. You then may recompose.

Use this, and wait for AF to lock, before you grab the focus ring with a lens with manual-focus override. Otherwise, the 5D Marking Two volition go on trying to pull focus control away from yous.

AI SERVO

The camera keeps trying to focus as things move around. It never stops; it always tracks your subject in and out.

Don't use this setting if you want to utilize instant manual-focus override by grabbing your lens' focus band: the 5D Mark II will keep trying to focus under yous.

AI FOCUS

I use this most of the fourth dimension. This clever setting normally selects whichever of the two settings above is appropriate, and uses it.

This setting cleverly locks itself when the subject is nonetheless, and tracks it when it'southward moving.

I just select 1 SHOT when I know I'g shooting stills, otherwise, for kids or whatever pops up, AI FOCUS is my choice.

You lot can use transmission-focus override in AI FOCUS, but only if it has locked, which it rarely does. In most cases, the 5D Mark II will keep trying to focus in AI FOCUS unless you lot're on a tripod.

AF Betoken Selection

The thumb controller has 9 positions, and then you lot tin select any AF point in just one push. You never have to click around to get where you desire.

For case, if you take the left sensor selected and want the right sensor, just click right. On Nikon, you'd have to click right twice. Want the bottom sensor? Merely click downwardly from wherever you lot are.

Want to utilize all the sensors? Push button the pinnacle right button on the back of the 5D Mark II; no menus required for any of this.

I use just the center point if I'm being conscientious in ONE SHOT, and usually select all sensors for general shooting in AI FOCUS.

The center sensor is more sensitive than the others in dim light. If the other sensors aren't doing well in dim light, choose the center sensor and yous'll be much happier.

The Quick Control Screen top

Quick Control Panel

Catechism 5D Marker II Quick Control Screen.

You tin command everything from i tap of the SET button, if you turn on this feature past pressing:

MENU > CAMERA••••• (C.Fn) > C.Fn Iv Functioning/Others > Fix > 3: Assign SET Push button > Fix > five: Quick Control Screen > Ready.

Now when y'all tap SET, it wakes up a command screen on the rear LCD from which we tin can control everything with the dial, joystick and SET button.

In one case you lot get this screen, employ the pollex button to drive effectually, and the dial to change the setting. If you need more than details almost what you're setting, press the SET button over again, but it's not necessary.

In that location'southward no need to press OK or DONE or Go out. The instant you lot've changed something, information technology's done.

I do wish I could drive off i end of the screen and arrive at the other side, only information technology stops at the ends.

Y'all tin read and set apertures and shutter speeds on this screen, simply in manual exposure mode, there is no indication for the correct exposure. For manual exposure, expect at the bar graph in the finder or on the erstwhile meridian LCD.

If you lot tap the INFO push button, you'll telephone call upward the very similar INFO screen, which does drive the bar graph to let you set read manual exposure.

INFO Screen top

I didn't have a graphic for the Quick Set screen, and so the screen shown above is more precisely the INFO screen y'all'll get if you press INFO twice.

They are the aforementioned, except that the lesser bar shows details on what y'all're setting if you're in the Quick Control screen.

If you lot call back this screen with the INFO push button, it doesn't go away. To make this INFO screen get away, you have to press INFO once again.

INFO Button

Tap this if you're not playing back, and it shows all sorts of goodies nearly how your 5D Mk II is set, the fourth dimension and date, and how many shots and how much free space is left on your card.

Tap information technology once more and the screen I showed above pops up, and won't become away until you press INFO again.

Total Recall Camera Country Memories top

C1, C2 and C3 Full Retrieve positions. bigger.

Set these earlier you go out, and everything you'll need will exist right at your fingertips all day or forever.

Each time you turn the punch to one of the C1, C1 or C3 positions, everything is reset to what was stored in that position.

Feel free to change whatever settings equally you shoot in the C1, C2 or C3 positions. Y'all won't erase what you saved. These changes will stay until the camera times-out, usually one minute (you can modify that elapsing in the menus), and the next time you go to shoot, fifty-fifty if you had inverse something, you're back at your saved settings.

If you lot want to render to the saved settings more rapidly, merely move the punch to any other position and return.

To Relieve a Suite of Settings

To save a complete camera-country setting of your 5D Marking 2:

ane.) Gear up the camera as you like. Everything is saved.

2.) Press:

Carte du jour > WRENCH ••• > Photographic camera user setting > SET > Annals > choose the C1, C2 or C3 position > OK > Prepare.

To Make a Permanent Change to a Stored Setting

To alter a stored setting:

1.) Fix the dial to that setting, C1, C2 or C3. This recalls the setting.

two.) Change something.

three.) Salvage the camera'south current land back into that dial position:

Card > WRENCH ••• > Photographic camera user setting > Prepare > Register > Carefully select the correct C1, C2 or C3 position > OK > SET.

If you select the wrong C1, C2 or C3, you volition have overwritten the settings at that position.

To Make a Temporary Change to a Stored Setting

Just change something as you lot would anywhere else.

As soon every bit you select or re-select a C setting, or as shortly as the photographic camera goes to slumber and wakes up again after your preset Car Power Off fourth dimension, set by pressing:

MENU > WRENCH • > Automobile Ability Off > (select time flow) > Ready,

your originally saved C setting is recalled.

The C settings are not altered unless you deliberately save something into them every bit described above.

To Make a Longer Change to a Stored Setting

The 5D Marker Ii system allows all sorts of ways to make things easier.

As we just learned, if you change something in a C mode, subsequently the camera resets in usually about a infinitesimal, all your temporary settings are reset.

What if you want to continue using slightly different settings for a longer flow of fourth dimension?

Easy!

If you lot want to salvage them for up to about a half-hour or so, while in a C setting, press:

Carte > WRENCH • > Auto Power Off > (select longer time period) > SET.

Now the 5D Marking 2 will work in your C mode in your new settings for that menstruation of time after yous brand your last shot, and and then later on that time (xxx minutes maximum), automatically reverts to whatever you saved in that C setting. (If you leave that C setting and return, it also resets instantly.)

Hither'south the clever role: you keep that setting for 30 minutes, and when the 5D Marking II resets to your saved C setting, the fourth dimension-out catamenia also reverts to whatever yous saved before, probably ane minute! Thus you lot can change a C setting for a while, it won't change, and when you lot're done, Voilà!, you're dorsum to where you lot wanted to be!

To Make a Longer Modify to a Stored Setting

Let's not forget the usual P, Tv, Av and Chiliad positions.

When you alter ane of them, they stay that way forever.

The four of them together are sort of like an unlocked C setting: every fourth dimension yous come up dorsum to them, they are as you left them, merely if you change something while in them, they stay that way.

If dealing with some weird light that requires odd White Balance settings, you may want to use the P, Tv, Av or M positions, and so if a dissimilar opportunity presents itself, flip into one of your C modes, and as soon equally you click back into any of P, Tv, Av or M positions, you're where you left off.

Bright!

My personal Total Recall settings top

Of course everything about the camera is saved into each of these memories. This is what I saved that changes for me from setting to setting.

	C1	C2	C3
Used for	General Scenics	Family	Serious Scenics
Exposure Mode	Pro (P)	Pro (P)	Pro (P)
Resolution	M	S	50
Picture Style	+3 Saturation	+ii Saturation	+iii Saturation
ISO	Auto	Car	ISO 50 (L)
Exposure Comp.	0	0	-ii/3
Highlight Recovery	ON	ON	off
Shadow Recovery	ON	ON	ON
AF	Ane Shot	AI Focus	I Shot
AF Sensors	Auto (all)	Auto (all)	Motorcar (all)*
Advance	Continuous (3.9fps)	Continuous (3.9fps)	Continuous (three.9fps)
LCD Brightness	Manual 5 (bright)	Manual iv (normal)	Transmission 4 (normal)
Motion picture Resolution	1920/23.98p*	640/29.97p*	1920/23.98p*

* I'll oft go to just the key sensor by tappng the thumb controller.

** read as 24p and 30p in the menu organization.

Shadow Lightening ("Automatic Lighting Optimizer") top

I exit this on all the time, which is its default position.

You can tin tweak this past pressing:

MENU > CAMERA•• (C.Fn) > C.Fn II: Paradigm > Set up > 4: Automobile Lighting Optimizer.

It works well as needed, and leaves things alone if not.

Highlight Recovery (called "Highlight Tone Priority" in menus) acme

My house. Roll mouse-over to run into with highlight recovery OFF.

Canon calls this "Highlight Tone Priority" in the menus. It is off by default. You set up it by pressing:

MENU > Photographic camera••••• (C.Fn) > C.Fn Ii: Image > SET > three: Highlight Tone Priority : Enable.

Highlight recovery works past reducing exposure, and them lightening about of the of the epitome, except for the highlights. Everything stays the same, except that blown-out highlights might not blow-out, but only if yous're lucky.

It rarely makes any visible improvement. This example is the one time it actually did. Information technology but pulls-in virtually one more stop, and when you've lost a highlight, information technology usually is either further overexposed than that, or it's OK without any of these shenanigans.

"Reducing exposure" is some other way of saying that information technology shoots at a higher ISO past default. You tin can't shoot at ISO 50 or ISO 100; with highlight recovery ON, it starts at ISO 200.

Sadly, the 5D Marking 2 has rather visible noise in the shadows at ISO 200, even in broad daylight.

Therefore, I avoid this feature for conscientious work, and leave it ON when I'm already using higher ISOs.

It'south easy to assign this ON or OFF in the C1, C2 and C3 positions, and then it's like shooting fish in a barrel to have it turn ON or OFF as conditions change.

Long Exposures superlative

The rear red pilot light stays on during long exposures.

I'd skip Long Exposure NR; I get smashing results without information technology fifty-fifty at thirty seconds.

Live View top

I don't employ this.

To get it to become, y'all need to actuate information technology in a card somewhere.

If you can detect that, the alive view (and movie-making) button is the 1 with the silver camera icon but to the left of the viewfinder eyepiece.

Video top

You have to enable this in some bill of fare earlier you can shoot.

Video capture is office of Live View. You can choose the Picture Style set for Live View to suit sharpness, dissimilarity, colour saturation and white balance.

The rear LCD tin exist matted with a semi-transparent border to match the aspect ratio you've chosen.

Why I Don't Care.

Finder top

With heavy conveying, the diopter setting sometimes changes. If the finder suddenly seems weird, reset the little punch on the top right of the eyecup.

Folders top

It'south easy to brand new folders. I put this item in the MY MENU menu.

Each time you make a new binder, it's number increments by 1. You can't name them.

It's easy to apply this card to come across what folders y'all have, and what'due south in them.

I make a new folder each day. Sadly, dissimilar Canon's point-and-shoots, there is no option for having new, dated, folders automatically created for you each 24-hour interval. Over again, the Powershot and EOS teams need to have sake together more frequently.

Peripheral Illumination Correction summit

The 5D Mark II can correct for light falloff for lenses for which correction information has been loaded into it.

The 5D2 tin can store information for up to xl dissimilar lenses if yous load it into your 5D3. Nigh 26 lenses are preloaded.

For at least some of your lenses, you'll have to fetch and load this data into your photographic camera the hard fashion so that the 5K Mk II can right it:

1.) Install the EOS Utility software from the CD that came with your 5D2.

2.) Open the EOS Utility software.

3.) Connect your 5D Mk Two via USB, then turn information technology on. (EOS Utility volition get-go past itself if it's not open.)

four.) Click the "camera settings" option from the main screen of EOS Utility.

x.) Under the Shooting Menu (cherry photographic camera icon) in the EOS 5D Mark II window that opens, click the "Lens Aberration Correction" line.

x.) A new, bigger window opens with a list of lenses.

x.) Check the lenses yous want. If you run out of your 40 maximum, uncheck some of the lenses Canon had checked equally default.

ten.) Click OK.

x.) Click Main Card.

x.) Click Quit.

7.) Now your camera has this data for eternity. No, I have no idea why this isn't presintalled at the manufactory every bit it ought to be.

Practice this for every lens or lens and teleconverter combination you've got for which the camera has no data.

Oddly, about every lens fabricated by Canon is hither, except the archetype 80-200mm f/ii.8L, which needs no correction, and the 20-35mm f/ii.8L, which does.

AF Microadjustment elevation

Don't bear upon this.

If you have to ask how to set it, then you'll probably go far worse if y'all fiddle with this.

If yous insist on playing with it, know that only well-nigh i lens in twenty needs any adjustment, and the results are only visible at big apertures.

If you employ zoom lenses, be forewarned that there is only i setting available per lens, and that zooms may demand unlike settings for each focal length.

When you lot do set it, the 5D Mark II is smart enough to recall different settings for different lenses equally you set them, automatically.

When setting information technology, apply natural targets like trees. Don't utilise tilted flat targets, since the bodily location of the AF sensors is never really exactly where they are marked in the finder.

To set information technology, you need to make many, many examination shots to arrive at a setting. Every shot varies a petty from shot to shot; no AF arrangement gives the same issue for each shot. Brand at least v shots at every distance, and try every altitude, since the settings tin can vary past altitude.

It's marked in "Forward" and "Backward," which makes no sense. As observed, "Frontwards" ways that the focus is pushed further away from the camera, and "Backward" means that focus is pulled closer to the camera.

Aid me help you top

I back up my growing family through this website, as crazy every bit it might seem.

If you notice this as helpful as a volume you might have had to buy or a workshop you may have had to take, feel free to help me proceed helping anybody.

If you lot've gotten your gear through one of my links or helped otherwise, you're family. It'south great people like you who permit me to proceed adding to this site full-time. Thanks!

If you haven't helped yet, please do, and consider helping me with a souvenir of $5.00.

The biggest help is to employ these links to Adorama, Amazon, B&H and eBay when you go your goodies. It costs you nada and is a huge help to me. eBay is always a run a risk, but all the other places accept the best prices and service, which is why I've used them since before this website existed. I recommend them all personally.

Cheers for reading!

Ken

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Canon 5d Mark Ii Remote Control Setup

Posted by: annehoempot1963.blogspot.com

Canon 5d Mark Ii Remote Control Setup

Canon 5d Mark Ii Remote Control Setup

Canon 5d Mark Ii Remote Control Setup

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